Sunday, December 12, 2010

Peace of the Small Adventures

Ten months since last post. Things have happened.

The Jesuit Volunteer Corps year wound down. The river broke and froze again. I learned to cut fish and to listen better. I quilt more, sing about as much, and decided to stay in Bethel. Jill and I moved into our own apartment at the end of August and we've been making our way. And since August, here's a picture (or a few) of my life in Bethel, Alaska.

We live here.

And these are our neighbors.

Fall happened, briefly.

The days are shorter again, rising up and bringing down.

I finished my Alaska quilt.

I began a different quilt that offered odd left overs.

I made Challah.

I took a ride in Nunapitchuk.

And I visited Chuathbaluk...

...where this guy lives.

And from the small plane, saw glimpses of the Alaska people see on postcards.


I also still work as a legal advocate at the Tundra Women's Coalition, visit the Bethel Youth Facility every week, and attend two churches (Unitarian Universalist and Lutheran). And today, Jill made dinner while I tried to learn how to free motion quilt. Sometimes we sneak right into the peace of the small adventures of everyday living.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Where the Little Ones Sing and Provoke the Women into Dance

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

My first time visiting the Bethel Youth Facility was shocking. Not in the, oh my, this is a jail for kids, or oh dear, what have they done with their lives, sorts of ways. No, in the surprise that here are five or so teenage boys, who want to sing songs, religious songs, songs with silly hand motions. So we sing. And we laugh. And I go back again soon.

Friday, November 6, 2009

Word’s got around that I visited the detention unit of the kiddie jail. But every week, on Friday nights at Supper Club at the Covenant Church, it’s the program unit side I see. We stand side-by-side ladling moose stew and dried fish, chopped onions, vegetable casseroles. On any given Friday evening, two or more of the guys come to do community work service here. The one with a Mohawk turns to me and asks me about my visits. “Do you want me to visit you guys, too?” An emphatic “yes” response. So much for too cool.

Sunday, November 7, 2009

Bounty. I was taken out to lunch with the UUs. A friend brought over caribou stew. An organization gave us fancy leftovers from their event. Another friend brought his chain saw over to help us cut up the donated wood. Here, as winter is in full swing, we have much opportunity to learn to live in gratitude.


The chain saw. As some of my roommates would have liked to awe, we didn’t stop to admire. Hauled wood pallets, stacked the already sawed, and all had a chance with the ax. Certainly some more successful than others.




After the wood was cut, the food consumed, we went out. He gave me brief instructions and then away we went. I’d never felt the wind like that, seen the world lay out so flat, with access points to all the Bethel neighborhoods. Sometimes I still can’t believe the tundra is frozen enough that we could pause above it, ride along it, on a typical Bethel transport: the snow machine.


Wednesday, November 11, 2009

The snow has melted and frozen. The roads are treacherous and I tiptoe to work. After awhile, I’m only twenty feet from where I was. But someone I know is driving slow, and picks me up, and away we go. Wheels, I shouldn’t be surprised to find, are faster than tiptoes.


Saturday, November 14, 2009

As I find again and again, my chosen friend group outside my housemates tends to be middle-age women. So I go to their quilting retreat, retreat into colors, textures. Of course nothing too subtle; the cowboys pass the pine trees and soon-to-be-sewn tea cups in my nine patch.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

In Fairbanks for a conference for both advocates and law enforcement. Segregate ourselves by tables. But over the days, work to learn to connect to listen. An officer presents. He understands the subject better than I and he explains it understandably. He says, think about a bank robbery. Do we scold the bank? Blame them? Do we say, well if you didn’t have so much money in here…? If you weren’t so well decorated…? No. We blame the robber. And so it is with domestic violence.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

The reprieve from wind is noticeable, along with the negative sign not too familiar in Bethel yet.


Here in Fairbanks though, the windless, frigid streets, dark before five pm, feel like another world, like walking through a frozen deserted Western.


Being only out in the dark because of the conference I attend, I take in what sights I can by riding the public bus to the university; seeing a movie with an advocate, a cop, and a trooper; and eating prepared food in the basement of a church. At the church, I practice not being behind the table and sitting at it instead. Meet two men. While they are there to receive a free hot meal too, they are far from free from being of service to others. As they leave, one hands me a card about the street ministry they are involved in. And I learn to appreciate more and more how the world can be flipped; who helps whom and whom Jesus served and serves through.

Friday, November 20, 2009

Drive on the "highway".


Wind around and arrive at the strip of Bethel airports. Park the white pick up truck and jump a few feet to get out. Walk in and ask if they have extra wood pallets that TWC (Tundra Women’s Coalition) can have. (Don’t know what we’re planning to use the pallets for since we don’t have wood stoves, but assume it’s for a good cause because we’re TWC). Get directed to the back. Drive through held open tall, tall chain link fence. Now I’m on the airstrip reversing in the white pick up. (Hope no planes run me over. Even though they would be small bush planes, force is force). Man from airport loads maybe fourteen pallets stacked high onto the bed of the truck. Tells me to drive slow. I look at him and look at the pallets stacked ten feet high on the bed. I look at him again. He asks, will you be all right? I ask, earnestly, no sarcasm, do you think I’ll be all right? He says, earnestly, no sarcasm, no. Then proceeds to adjust everything. And I hope he laughed later, as I drove away slowly slowly, obviously not from here, with the wooden pallets for our unknown project.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

The mother reads aloud something somber while her daughter saunters to and fro blowing bubbles.

Thursday, November 26, 2009

House hop for Thanksgiving. First at the house we live in where we make salmon and eggs for our breakfast and remember what we are thankful for. Next at the house of a woman from the Catholic Church who knows me from the kiddie jail where I go every week now who is friends with the UU group women who knows how this town all knows each other. Then at the house of the women who try to make a home out of the shelter where I bring my guitar where the little ones sing and provoke the women into dance.

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Finally, we sit down to our own Thanksgiving, the six of us. And we’ve prepared dishes. And I only had to call my mom a few hundred times to learn how to make green bean casserole.


Monday, November 30, 2009

Ups and downs and yards and yards and Jill tries to explain, but I really don’t understand football. No ups she says, only downs. Doesn’t what goes down always come up? Not in this game the Patriots loose, loose, loose (poor, poor PJ).

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

A quick phone call sends me searching our mud room (the entry room where gear is stored). Luckily I find a hidden gem. Some may argue hidden on purpose, the green snow suit, with fake (?) fur on the hood and a high-waisted belt magically fits. All green and ready to go, we gather our Former Jesuit Volunteer friends and ski across the frozen Kuskokwim River. Over the river and through the sloughs. Collapse at the outskirts of someone’s fish camp and stare at the stars.

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Maybe it’s this Saturday, probably one before. I visit the guys at the kiddie jail. I’ve already been informed that they have sold assaliaq (fry bread) to raise money to send to Sudan. I exclaim praises at them for this and they shrug. But they are knowledgeable about what’s going on there. And so I read with them a sermon from my pastor from Grinnell; providing during someone else’s dry spell, provoking one another to love and good deeds. At the end, they realize, that’s them. And they’re finding their own place in a larger narrative.

Saturday, December 12, 2009

We attend a Christmas party we interpret to mean: wear-the-crazy-sweaters-you-find in-your-house party. So we do. And then I make them all celebrate Hanukkah with me the next week. Happy holidays indeed.


Thursday, December 17, 2009

A Haiku for the Tundra Women’s Coalition’s new building.
New; Grand Opening.
Hectic first, then refreshing.
Make chocolate bar.


Saturday, December 19, 2009

Fly to Anchorage, fly to Chicago. In Oak Park for nine days. See the family, run around, eat different food. It’s noisy, delicious, homey. And leave again. Surprising, at this point, I look forward to my Bethel return, to my housemates, to the glorious sunsets, to my work, to the kiddie jail, to Supper Club, to quilters meetings, to slow quiet evenings in our home.


Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Flown from Chicago five or so hours to Anchorage, large plane. Overnight with JVs in Anchorage. Flown Anchorage an hour to Bethel, plane half seats, half cargo. Picked up from Bethel. Unpack, repack. Tea and sandwich at Grant Coffee at Grant Aviation in Bethel. Then fly with Hageland Aviation, a nine-seater plane, over frozen tundra to Pilot Station, a village on the Yukon River.


Arrive on a gravel runway on the side of a mountain. One of maybe two white people in the community center full of people. Stand up with a coworker while she presents on healthy relationships and role models. Listen to others’ stories, some through a translation device. Within three hours, get picked up and driven back to airstrip. Fly back to Bethel. In twenty-four hours, Chicago to Pilot Station; 2,853,114 people to 596.


Friday, January 1, 2010

One of the last places in the world to bring in the New Year, we watched the fireworks on the river. Because of the way the sun turns, there is too much light in the summer to have fireworks for July 4th, so there are many rounds of them tonight.

Thursday, January 7th, 2010

We wait in their house for a little while until the rest show up. And then they come. First the boy with the star, then everyone else files in. We fill their living room. They sing in harmony. In English, Russian, Yupik. After a half an hour or so, we all sit down and the host passes out candy. And then they file out and the last night of Slaaviq, Russian Orthodox Christmas, is done.

Friday, January 15, 2010

Mid-afternoon, the rest of us pick up our box, which includes frozen chicken, a delight we rarely indulge in, and pile into an SUV. We’re dropped off at the airport. Report our weight, and hand over our bags. We follow our pilot out to our plane. Our little, little plane. He says, if you have a beard or are an elder, you enter this door. In goes Joe and Nels Alexie, the race official going with us. If you don’t fit those characteristics, you go in here. I climb in over a folded seat, PJ follows. The pilot closes us in, walks around, uncovers the engine, and climbs in his door. He explains some safety features, and off we go. As we drive toward the runway, I see another small plane about to take off. It looks like an insect, stringy legs, wide wings. We follow, take off, and bump along on the wind above Bethel.



We arrive in Upper Kalskag and there is no one there. The race organizers in Bethel warned us that things may be less organized up here this year. The Kuskokwim 300, a mid-distance dog sled race, always goes through Kalskag, but in years past the check point here was at the school in Upper Kalskag. This year, it will be at the school in Lower Kalskag. We grab our bags, are assured of good things by our pilot who takes off, and look around at unfamiliar mountains and trees.


There is no one around. A truck drives by. Nels assumes we are to walk the couple of miles to the school. I see the post office across the way. So we split up. Nels and Joe begin the walk down one road, PJ and I check the post office for a phone.

At just past five pm, we’re lucky the post office is still open. The woman there calls the school for us, and reports the principal is on his way. We thank her, re-gear, and head out to find the other two.

Joe and Nels had found a ride with a Kalskag resident while walking down the road that does not actually lead to Lower Kalskag, and came back for us. Just as we were picking up our bags at the fenced in airstrip, the principal drives in. We split up again, and all make it in to the school. Once there, we meet the vet for the weekend and the radio personality. As the sun sets, we don our head lamps, and go out to move hay and food for the mushers to use when they stop here. So heavy. I drag one bag of frozen food to the other side of the building, and have to rest and laugh at myself. I resign myself to alphabetizing the bags while the guys bring the others. Going back in the building, we rub our fingers against the lasting cold, and try to prepare ourselves for the lower degrees to come.

We eat well. The cook for the Upper Kalskag school always prepares the food for the people at this checkpoint, and we are not disappointed. Dry fish, akutaq, pasta salad, moose stew, turkey and noodles. We read left over newspapers and put in a dollar in guessing when the first musher will arrive.

Saturday, January 16, 2010

I win the guess. At somewhere around 4:30 in the morning, Lance Mackey pulls up over the hill into the school parking lot. Record the time from my watch, hanging from a lanyard around my neck. Have him sign in on our clipboard. Watch as he turns his dogs around, parks them next to someone’s house. He prepares their food, beds them in with straw, and then rests himself during his mandatory six-hour layover.

One by one, the next twelve mushers come in over a spread of six or so hours. And we are out there for all of them. We anticipate them based on when they left Tuluksak, the previous checkpoint where the rest of our housemates are. But they rarely come right at the five-hour mark of how long it usually takes to get from Tuluksak to Kalskag by dog sled. So we wait. And wait. And take turns. After each comes in and is recorded, I waddle as fast as I can into the refuge of the school and call in their numbers to headquarters.

We were told we would never have been colder. Maybe true. We thought we were prepared. PJ has his grandfather’s military mittens. Joe has a new facemask. I have new puffy purple gloves from my family. But none of it really cuts it, standing out there on the ice, waiting. At least the wind is less than Bethel’s. But with the wind-chill, it’s still negative fifty something. In fifteen minute intervals, usually someone has to go inside due to the cold. But there are almost always two of us out there.


I was waiting with Nels. Nels is not cold. Ever. He has a muskrat coat and rabbit mittens, each the size of my thigh. He tells me to pace, to walk around, to move my fingers. He beckons me and tells me to take off a glove. He takes his own warm, warm hand out of his mitten and takes my hand. He says he could chip my fingers right off, and he laughs, shaking his hand.


Inside, when the mushers are there, they are lounging, eating good food, napping and waiting for our wake up calls. By the early afternoon, mushers are leaving, every half an hour or hour. We time them to the minute and send them off. They are tired, and so are their dogs, but they’ll be worse upon their return.


Then one musher left. Mitch Seavy. He has frostbite in his cornea. He scratches the race. He leaves. He won last year.

All the mushers seem to have something to say about the trail this year. Very little snow, lots of glare ice and wind, sand in some places. Not an easy race this time. So then there were twelve.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

From our checkpoint, the mushers race up to Aniak, then Napaimute, and turn around. As we wait, we nap, chat, read, eat salmon tempura, check the times of the mushers online. In the middle of the night, we pack gear on again, the radio personality lends me his moose mittens to put on over my store-bought gloves, which he has to help me put on because they’re too big. All bundled. Walk over to the hill overlooking the river. All’s dark. See the lights of Upper Kalskag a few miles away. Then a head lamp. And another. And another. Martin Buser, Lance Mackey, and John Baker, all together coming down the trail. In five minutes, they’ll make the quick climb up our hill. And they arrive, 3:01 am, 3:01 am, and 3:03 am. Baker turns right around and leaves again, Mackey drops a dog or two, then heads out. Buser parks, feeds his dogs, and leaves a half an hour later.

Over the next many hours, the rest of the mushers stream in. They no longer race up the hill, but make it up in a walk or a little faster. Some leave right away, some stay longer.


When they leave, we watch the computer for their arrival back in Tuluksak, where they have another mandatory layover. Quinn Iten and Pete Kaiser still haven’t gotten there. Middy Johnson still hasn’t left Napaimute. It’ll be longer still.

When Mike Williams Senior, comes down the trail, I am missing PJ and Joe. I stand at the top of our hill, watching him. I call over our radio personality to stand with me so that he can help if needed when Mike Senior comes in. The others are bringing dropped dogs to the airport by way of a teenager on a borrowed snow machine and attached rickety sled.


We turn back to the trail. The dogs are pulling the sled, but Mike Senior is no longer on it. He’s walking several feet back, then several more feet, and then more. The dogs turn up an embankment and disappear. Luckily, Pete Kaiser’s father is nearby in a truck, about to head down to Tuluksak, and we send him down to help Mike Senior recover his team. As they disappear up the embankment, we turn around, head back toward the school, past it and toward the playground decorated with the left over hay. And here comes the team, right up to his previous parking area, and Mike Senior trailing. He stops them, parks them, tells us he’ll rest awhile here, and beds in his dogs.


As we sign him in, he doesn’t care about his time, but is more interested in how his son is doing, who came in and left hours before. Mike Williams Junior is training for the Iditarod this spring and Mike Senior is running the B team to test them out for his son. Many of the mushers are testing their dogs for the Iditorad, but no one else’s father is for their son, and certainly not with as much pride and good-heartedness as Mike Senior is.

By the time Mike Senior leaves, the last musher has still not made it in. But three hours later, Middy Johnson leads his team in, quietly and with much control. When I go out to meet him, I ask him if he plans on staying awhile. Three hours he muses. So he beds in his dogs, feeds them, and comes in. It’s Sunday evening, and the cooks have already left since they have school tomorrow. We share what food they left, and then we share Middy’s snacks as he tells us about his hometown, his family, and his mushing style.

As we talk, I remember yesterday’s date, exclaim how it was my half birthday, a tradition I celebrate with my family. PJ rolls his eyes as mine grow with humor. Middy discusses the possibilities of half birthdays with 365 days in the year. And then, six hours after he arrived in Kalskag, Middy determines it might be time to head onward.

Meanwhile, our vet and our radio personality have been plotting. Trying to leave tonight, unlikely. Over the weekend, they’ve been sharing stories of all the years they’ve been out at checkpoints together, and certainly more impossible things have happened to them, or near them at least, then trying to leave a village (a difficult task…so we may find). So, as luck is in their favor this evening, they get out with the last of the dropped dogs. And as Middy leaves at 11 or so that night, it’s just PJ, Joe, Nels, and I left, wondering when we might get our own plane out and make our way to our beds, exhilarated and exhausted.

Monday, January 18, 2010

At 8:30 in the morning, we go to meet our plane. The principal drives us over in his green jeep. We pile out. He says he’ll check later to make sure we actually left and drives off to work. We wait. Nels tells me not to wait until I’m cold and start walking around now. We all walk around, except Nels, content in his rabbit mittens. We check out the small two-person planes parked on the other edge of the fenced in area. And we don’t leave. The principal comes back after awhile, having heard on his radio that the plane never left Bethel, and so we all go back to the school.

The school is in session, we’re offered a breakfast of cereal and milk, and watch the 30 or so students of the high school walk class to class. PJ makes calls to headquarters for a new plane.

At 10:30, we go back to the airfield. The principal drives us. We pile out. He says he’ll check on us later and drives off. We wait. We walk. We watch the sky. And we don’t leave. Again we’re picked up, taken to the school, and wait. This time, we hear the terminal in Aniak burned down. A reasonable reason for delay. Except the plane is supposed to come from Bethel. So we keep waiting.

At 12:30, we hear the plane has left Bethel, so we go out to meet our plane. The principal drives us. We pile out. Again he says he’ll check on us. Again we wait, and walk, and watch. Forty-five minutes after the plane should have been there, the principal is back, picks us up, and decides there’s no use waiting for that long in the cold, however many negative degrees. As we drive, he calls in the radio. Twenty minutes until our plane is supposed to arrive. So he picks up some things at one school and then drops us off again. None of us can feel our appendages, except of course Nels Alexie.

Like Manna from heaven, the plane finally comes out of the sky; the pilots greet us as if it’s a summer day. We file into the caravan, collapse into our seats, and eye the frozen tundra tiredly as we fly back to Bethel.

We arrive after our other housemates. So they’ve already built a fire in one of our wood stoves. We swap stories while we take turns showering. They tell us how Middy Johnson said he met us and talked about my half birthday. They tell us how Jackie Larson’s dog handlers remembered me, saying she was nice, but she didn’t seem to really like dogs. They tell us how Abby played monopoly for hours, how Jill accidentally convinced Quinn Iten’s dad that she was a musher, how one of the Klejka kids broke an icicle off of Justin’s beard.

At the K300 banquet that night, we heard from each musher who finished. We saw the unique trophies awarded to the winners; John Baker, first in the K300, received a painted native drum. We took a group picture under the Subway banner ($8 footlongs). And as Nels spoke his piece, he named us the three stooges, which our vet and radio personality agreed with, and Middy emphasized with bringing up my half birthday again during his speech. At the end, we left laughing and toting eight left over lasagnas.

Wednesday, January 27th, 2010

As I sat in the waiting area, not knowing what to expect, I hear one side of a conversation. There’s something about a gun, alcohol, two people, and an address. And then it’s time to go—there.

It’s Wednesday night and I’m working a four hour shift from the passenger seat of a police cruiser. It’s my first ride-along with the Bethel Police Department and there is no time to spare right at the start. I follow the sergeant into his cruiser, and we drive to the address the dispatch relays to us. I wait in the cruiser while the sergeant and an officer respond. After a long while, the situation is diffused, the sergeant speaks with dispatch, and we drive on.

From 7:00 pm until 11:00 pm, I observe, ask questions, and listen. The sergeant and I drive all over Bethel, on the ice road between Tundra Ridge and Larson Sub, over the winding road to Hanger Lake, and across the frozen Kuskokwim from the Slough to behind new YK. We respond to a handful of calls, all of which I observe from the cruiser, and almost all of which involve alcohol. After four hours, I am dropped off at my house. The street is quiet and my housemates are already asleep. But I know for the sergeant, his night has barely just begun as his 12 hour shift continues on.

Friday, February 12, 2010

Forty degrees almost all weekend, about 70 degrees warmer than Bethel. We’re in Juneau for retreat. We drive around downtown a bit, among the unfamiliar again, mountains and trees. Here is the Alaska most people picture that is so unlike Bethel.

A few hours later, we drive up to The Shrine of St. Therese. On the ocean where we’ll see far away whales and circling sea lions. I pick my room for the view and for the quilt on the bed.


Saturday, February 13, 2010

We cook, we pray, we eat, we reflect, but we don’t think critically enough about social justice. How to make this vague concept concrete? By the stories we tell of the encounters we have had. And so we tell them.

Sunday, February 14, 2010

It smells like wood, some type Justin probably knows. And it rings magically when we sing. The chapel at The Shrine is cozy and majestic. I still feel like a foreigner during Mass, but this time, I have my part; playing guitar, singing songs I’ve known for years. As we lead the first song in Setswana, the Bishop looks a bit uncomfortable, but still serene. And God is praised in peace and joy.

Monday, February 15, 2010

Driving to airport in Juneau. Pit stop. A glacier.


The touch of two buttons and I can reach my dad. Usually, it’s a couple dozen with my calling card. Ah, Anchorage. Between that, groceries from Juneau at a third of Bethel prices, and chicken nuggets at airport prices, we’re ready to depart again back to Bethel.

Friday, February 19, 2010

The last and only other time we tried before, we were, well, unsuccessful. Needless to say, I am nervous now as I slip over the packed-down snow to crawl my way to the other side of the back seat. We pack in, back up, and drive over by the Lomack building, turn down by the river next to the sea wall, and, with no fanfare, drive over the trail of other cars on the bank and onto the river. No one else is nervous or excited. No one else is from somewhere else either. This is nothing new for them, nothing strange, different, or potentially terrifying. So here we go, just past noon on a regular Friday in Bethel. We are driving on the Kuskokwim River, maybe 42 inches thick of ice, heading downriver toward our destination.

The way is not difficult to determine. It’s the path clear of snow, wide enough for any pick-up truck to fit across. The banks lead to more and more tundra, covered in snow, patched with brambles. The ice road is marked by large branches, placed straight up in the ice, with reflectors dangling from them for the headlights in the dark. The ice is brown now, then navy, and turquoise. My coworker pokes fun, soon we’ll see the hookers, she says. What? Oh—people manaq-ing, ice fishing. We see others pulling up nets through holes they’ve made in the ice. We move to the side as other cars slow down to pass us going back to Bethel. We pass the bluffs known for the little people, famous in Yupik stories for getting travelers lost, especially those on snow machines.


In an hour and twenty minutes, we arrive in Nunapitchuk, a village on the Johnson River. We are here for tribal court advocacy for our client. Since we are early, she takes us to her sister’s house, brimming with children and cable TV. We’re fed dry fish and akutaq—“Eskimo Ice Cream”, made this time with Crisco and berries.

Just before three, we walk out of the house, over the soggy boardwalk, through too-early-for-February slush, and onto the river. I think of the months to come, after break-up, when this river will be flowing. But today, we walk on water. Follow more boardwalks. Pause again for our client and my coworker to hug more people they know. And enter the building where tribal court is held.

Tribal court is unfamiliar to me. But how welcoming then; to be in a place of slight discomfort, to be humbled by being there to support, yet so foreign to the proceedings, to sit there, listening, it’s almost all in Yupik, and I glean what I can, and I know the lawyers on the telephone are gleaning what they can too. Finally, the white people come second.

When the hearing is done, we stop in the village’s store. Crowded with goods because a delivery truck made it up the river, and so also crowded with people that our client and my coworker all know. High, high prices. And frozen chickens where ice cream bars would have been stored.

We wait for our ride back a long time. But where else would I need to be? Sip tea with pilot bread and jam around her sister’s kitchen table. There’s a little boy. I ask him how old he is. He understands some English, but looks to his mother, who repeats the question several times in Yupik. Then he looks at me with a toothy grin and holds up his pointer finger and pinky. Two? His mother says he can’t wait to be three because then he can hold up his fingers in the full form of Spiderman, thumb out, two fingers up, two fingers down.

On the couch in their living room, we sit. Look at their family pictures from the vantage point of my black cushion, and the cracking linoleum floor. Look at the Olympics happening, people jumping off hills with skis and spandex. And we chat about how suicide is becoming more of a problem for the young people in the villages.

When our ride does come, we gather our things, wobble down across the ice onto the river, and slip into the same car that brought us. We drive into the gathering darkness, no manaq-ers out now, and follow the road through 27 bends on the Johnson River and onto the Kuskokwim. Eventually we pass the other villages, Atmauthluk, Napakiak (the teenager next to me asserted, Na-party-ak), Napaskiak, Oscarville. The two red lights from the Bethel airport come in and out of view as we wind our way down the Kuskokwim. We drive off the river with no consequence and are dropped back off at work. With two hours past, it’s the longest I’ve been in a car since who knows when. I told the teenager next to me that this is like where I come from where we go on long road trips through the Midwest. But we don’t usually drive on the river. She says, we do here, and laughs.

Saturday, February 20, 2010

I call in ahead of time to see if they have the net up. They do. So I bring Jill with me. We go in, wait for the cross checks and assembling, and finally enter the gym. They split up teams, two on two, and I stand in the corner, hoping to not get hit, and watch. As they play volleyball, I watch to make sure I cheer equally for each person. When visiting hour is over the other two guys come in, join teams. At the end, I make them all come and sit with me in a circle, as usual. And we pray. Around the circle. Each person for the person next to him or her. And when a couple of them feel uncomfortable praying out loud, the rest of us take turns again. And so, each is prayed for. And then we laugh about what we’ll do next week since two are preparing a song. And then we go. Jill and I go. They stay.

Jill and I drop off a car at her work, and trek home across the tundra. The snow is beginning to fall fiercely, and when I look around, I feel like I’m on another planet. We follow the snow machine trails right up to our street. I am in no hurry though; I am still lifted by the joy of my young friends praying together at the Bethel Youth Facility. And Jesus said, where two or more are gathered in my name, there I am also. Nothing feels truer today.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

On the Corner of G and 6th

Monday, September 21, 2009

This week is training all week to become my role in the Sexual Assault Response Team (SART). With a multidisciplinary group, I was one of the novice advocates among nurses, police, and Alaska State Troopers. But I was young. So young. Most of us from my work are about the same age. In our 20’s. We’re the average age of the victims, the survivors, not the problem solvers, the professionals.
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Getting back from training to work. Count the money for the thrift store. Check my emails. Think about how inexperienced I am. “Can you stay a little longer today?” “Sure!” Eager to help, eager to learn. A woman, drunk, comes in. She’s been assaulted. I’m staying to be her advocate through the police interview. This is what we do. Experience matters, but it can’t be a requirement; there’s too much work to do. This is an average night in Bethel, looking for the fallen.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

A call comes in at 10 or so at night for Joe. His boss, a cheery, short woman, needs his assistance. He dons his glasses and his shoes quickly. I follow with a camera and my own shoes. Drive to BIA, Bureau of Indian Affairs Road, go down until we see her car, parked, headlights on. We jump out. On the ground between our two cars, a bird the size of a chicken is flopping around, flops right off the road. She points into the tall grass beneath the low-set telephone wires, directs Joe in. She and I link arms and hop and shout encouragement and directions as Joe finds the ptarmigan, gets the ptarmigan, drops the ptarmigan, and cannot find it again. After a good laugh, we pile back in to our cars. His boss leaves. Joe and I drive up and down BIA. He hopes he’ll see another to make it up to her, a lost hope by that hour with that little light. We drive back on Chief Eddie Hoffman Highway, our one paved road, listening to days-old NPR on the radio. Prairie Home Companion—needs a fireplace and steaming mug on this already cold night, luxuries not warranted this early in the season.

So that was ptarmigan picking. A pastime and a subsistence strategy, when you can actually get one. They fly into the low wires at twilight and people come by to scoop them up, wringing their necks if they’re not already all the way gone. This is an average night in Bethel, looking for the fallen.

Friday, September 25, 2009

The end of our week of training for the Sexual Assault Response Team. Would you report? Mixed reactions. An advocate who grew up in the village: no; too much to try to fit into upon return, too possible to be re-victimized going through the system. A nurse from outside Alaska: maybe; she knows the system, knows how it may be helpful, knows how it may fail her after her own post. A State Trooper: yes; he believes in the system, but says it wouldn’t be hard because it just wouldn’t happen to him. Who ever thinks it would?

Sunday, September 27, 2009

A co-worker of John my housemate is gone in Anchorage for two weeks. We get his worn out blue station wagon and head back down to BIA. Community night: Ptarmigan picking. It’s cold and PJ hangs out of his front seat window anyway, scanning for the unlucky birds. John does the driving; Justin refuses to be photographed. Jill and Joe can’t really see anything out of the way back, and it’s all Abby and I can do to stop laughing at our adventure. Needless to say, the birds were the lucky ones that night.

Monday, September 28, 2009

My parents sent me up a care package far superior to any that I’d ever received in college. Included here was the mysterious but ever-loved and appreciated quinoa. I didn’t really know how to pronounce it, let alone prepare it, and the directions on the back would only result in plain, though cooked, quinoa. And so I run into the dilemma that plagues my inspired evenings. Whenever I get the whim to creatively cook something, the whim becomes a wish to call my mother, who has infinitely more practical knowledge than I do, especially in the kitchen. However, not only would I have to dial roughly 38 numbers with a calling card to reach her, but due to time zone differences, I would also have to wake her up every time I try to be a grown up. So I took the matter into my own hands, determined to be an adult. I looked up quinoa in a cookbook, cooked it up, and added coriander. It called for fresh, which of course is unheard of in Bethel unless you secretly are a millionaire, or at least have a salary, so I went with the dry powder. And, of course, added too much. Determined not to waste it, I ate some, put it away, and began the epic quinoa week of 2009.

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

My first week on-call for SART. Three calls in two days after no calls the week before. Exhausting, exciting, frustrating, and hopeful. This has been my favorite part of my job so far. What I do, I only do for the hope and comfort of one person at a time. And it matters.

Tonight, I add onion and garlic powder to my quinoa.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Pentecostal Church service. Says the man in front looking back at us, at me. “You must not fear. If you have fear you do not and cannot have faith.” Seems hard to not have fear when I am about to walk home alone in the dark. Seems hard to not have fear when women I work with every day face violence in their own homes. Seems hard to not have fear when one woman I met was raped by a stranger walking home alone at night last weekend. Seems hard to not have fear unless you’re in some privileged position of being fearless and ignore the reality of many lives in the YK Delta. Would Jesus have more fear if he were a woman? Our faith should not be ignorant of our situation, but cognizant that people make sometimes harmful choices. Isn’t our faith in how we act not in how others will; how can this dismiss fear? And still I have faith that God is in this somewhere, somehow.

Tonight, I add tomato to my quinoa.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Tonight, I take a break from my quinoa.

Friday, October 9, 2009

Most nights, my roommate and I at least cross paths, usually on the way to bed. Fill each other in on the goings-on as good roommates do. Then talk of minor things, like what the center of the alphabet is. Between M and N I say. Between L and M she says. But the halfway is after number 13 I say. We count along on our fingers. No she says. There are 26 letters in the alphabet I say. What? Oh she says.

Tonight, I add left over hamburger and more tomato to my quinoa. It is finally delicious.

Saturday, October 10, 2009

I woke up this morning to the unfamiliar: dull sunlight. Lately, the morning has been streaked with darkness. My alarm unpurposefully timed just right to have blinks of the school bus’s night light dance back and forth on my wall as it first passes me, then comes back, meeting its match with the cul-de-sac.

And then more unfamiliar. Wind, strong, unceasing wind. Of course I’m used to the winds of the Midwest: Chicago; Iowa. But here, where our houses are up on posts above the permafrosted tundra, the wind takes a different toll. We move, or rather, are moved, and the tundra grasses are pushed fervently down. The rumor holds from Father Chuck that at this time of the year in this part of the world, we get the hasty leftovers from the typhoons of southeast Asia: a ragged batch of warm weather and the mighty scraps of forceful wind.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

As soon as I conveyed my concerns, maternal instincts kicked in. The seven or so middle-aged women sitting around the dining room table eating quiche with me all had something to add. Recipes, window sealers, winter tips, savings advice (start with a little every day now; you’ll appreciate it when you’re my age). It’s refreshing to be cared for so concretely. Mom won’t be so worried that I’m all the way up here; she’s got her extended network working in high gear.

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Tonight we light candles for all those affected by domestic violence, especially those who have had their voices silenced and their lives stolen.

Friday, October 23, 2009

Four of us walk down the corridor staring in every direction. Especially the floor. The tiles are shiny and perfectly laid. Turn on my cell phone that has only gathered dust in the last two and a half months. Two of the group stop at Starbucks. I call my brother. “Ariel?” he squawks. “Is that you? How are you calling me right now??”. I feel I must be emerging from the twilight zone. It only takes an hour flight east to Anchorage.

We gather up our luggage with space pocketed for a later Costco trip, which will save us at least a hundred dollars of groceries. Then we gape at city life, climbing into the van to pick us up. More than two story buildings. Traffic lights. Lots of cars. Lots of people, especially white ones. So much paved road. Mail boxes.

We have some hours to explore. Dropped off downtown. Food we can almost afford at greasy mall restaurants. Watches for less than $40. Escalators. We walk around outside, start catching up on other house gossip. Pose with moose decorations. This pace, this context, has become unfamiliar, and much less desirable. I miss hearing Yupik. I miss hearing people’s stories.

I stand waiting for a bus. I am giddy at the prospect of navigating a city again via public transportation. I was directed by the Anchorage JVs, but things aren’t running as they are supposed to exactly. I sit on a bench. He comes up on a black bike. He is my age and Native. “Are you from the Southeast?” (Meaning, Southeast Alaska). “I live in Bethel.” His mouth drops. He laughs a bit. Introduces himself and says who he’s related to in Bethel. Asks me if I speak Yupik. I tell him I know some words, how to count to five. He rattles off the numbers quietly, grinning. Tells me about weather and families and subdivisions. I ask him about the buses. He smiles the whole time he talks and listens, moving inches forward, inches back on his bike with his feet. Before he leaves, he shakes my hand and gives me his weeklong bus pass. I like what Jesus is like here on the corner of G and 6th. My bus comes soon after.
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Eventually we pack into vans and drive faster than I’ve gone in months. In Bethel, the wind goes faster than the cars. We curl through the mountains, back seat dozing off from the early flight. Wasilla. More strip malls, a public library. No Palin sightings, but there were mountains and trees and other things strange to Bethel.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Wake up in a warm cabin. Climb down from my bunk. Try not to make too much noise as I get ready. Put on the candy corn leggings. Put on the purple velvet dress, the leg warmers, the 80’s work-out shirt with shoulder pads, the wool patterned sweater, and lastly, the pink flamingo sunglasses. At breakfast, I’m first of our community. But eventually, in walks PJ, silver pants and flowing button-down pastel patterned shirt. Joe, paisley-patterned red shirt and a red, white, and blue bandana. Jill, the one-piece pajamas and short cream turban cap. Justin, sweater vest and short black skirt over khakis. Later, in comes John, an Alaska sweatshirt with cut off sleeves. Abby, sparkly orange dress with feather trim. And Jamie, our area director, in a blue bunny sweatshirt with sewn-in collar. Nothing builds community like Saturday morning retreat costumes. Most items found around our house, bestowed by past Bethel JVs. Many items traded around between us throughout the weekend.

Later, Abby and I walk through the woods. She leaves orange feathers accidentally along the trail and keeps appearing in my photographs like a much-too-easy where’s waldo.

Our first JVC Alaska retreat gave time for both reflection and community—needed ingredients outside the weekend that while not necessarily in short standing, can be strange to us still in Bethel.

Monday, October 26, 2009

After buying out Costco on our meager budget, we creatively repack our bags. I get the olive oil and the dish soap. Almost everyone gets spaghetti sauce, there’s so much. At the airport, we tape up the honey in Justin’s backpack to be checked. Stuff the oatmeal last minute into one of Jill’s extra bags. At the line with no people at security, we shake our heads at the sign for no knives with a picture of an uluk, really only found in Alaska. Head through security, almost. PJ can’t get through with peanut butter; check that bag. Jill’s flour in a garbage bag is inspected for drugs, pass. Justin’s baking powder is inspected for explosives, pass. We take our groceries, head towards our gate, and use our cell phones one last time before they’re obsolete again.

Friday, October 30, 2009

The heat’s not working at the thrift store. “I’m going to let you use one of your co-workers to figure that out.” So I ask one, tell her that because she’s lived in Alaska her whole life, she must know how to fix it and she scoffs at me. We go next door. Look at the furnace and have no idea what we’re looking at. It’s got fibers sticking out inside of it like a whale’s mouth. We ask one of the customers who takes a look. She says it’s probably the fuel’s out. We go outside. My co-worker pulls a long stick from the ground, takes off its twigs. I climb up the ladder to the fuel tank in the back, open the top. She hands me the stick and I guide it down into the tank, pull it out. Nothing. Out of fuel.

Saturday, October 31, 2009

I call for my roommates. I’d finally found both my boots and my coat after a two minute frantic search in the dark mud room (entry room) of their house. Daylight savings time left me at an hour’s advantage, awake enough to face the outdoors, or it’d be a rude awakening instead. I call again and hear the two girls answer. The guys all headed out earlier in spurts towards home. Just the three of us padded down the snow-hugged wooden steps to the river’s edge. Step purposefully on the driven down snow toward our house. Cross the highway, skirt alongside the bottom of the cultural center heaving down on its posts above the ground. Decide to take the tundra instead of the boardwalk tonight; Jill has her headlamp. Up the stairs of the college and around one of its three buildings. Onto the tundra just like Justin and PJ walking across it this afternoon with groceries.
By now all shades of fall have been erased and winter has made its home, snug until mid-May. A week and two days ago, we had our first real snow, and real winds of thirty miles per hour. It forced the falling snow in my face like a sand storm. But now, the snow lays still, but not the wind of course, and we clamor across the tundra on the paths set out by snow machines and sleds. As Abby and Jill unfold the evening for scrutiny, I watch my feet under my pink Halloween dress pass loudly by the tuffs of frozen weeds until we reach our house.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

At UU today, one man shared about his wife. She’s doing medical volunteer work in Sudan. A half a world away. She seems to be loving what she’s doing so far; working in unfamiliar settings, with unfamiliar issues, with unfamiliar people. Sounds a bit familiar to me.
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Dealing with bumps in community that are more than just bumps and talking to my family on the phone makes me miss home more—the home that isn’t where you live, but where you grew up under quilts and around living rooms, peeling potatoes for Mom and arguing about whose turn it is to do the dishes we all help with after dinner. I put on my classical guitar music and wish it were Dad playing it in real time and look forward to Christmas when I’ll be home again.

But Jill’s assembling a casserole in the kitchen. We just watched a movie altogether that PJ almost stayed awake for. Abby’s laundry hangs over wooden rods in the living room. Joe brought home leftovers last night, which included a fish eyeball that Justin ate at breakfast. John recounts stories of riding on a snow machine with a teenager from down the street and just came in from cutting up wood for our stove. I’ve been teaching Jill songs in different languages with our house guitar. And Justin will be home from leading youth group soon. I suppose we’re learning how to make home after all.

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Funny the Feeling of Freedom in Fitting Shoes

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Every Sunday, we’re invited to eat with a family down the street. Our fill of reindeer sausage today. We leave a couple hours after arrival per usual. We walk and I note houses and gardens we go by, the same walk I make from work. Just a day or two ago, I noticed a house I had not noticed before. A domed house. There are a few of them around Bethel. Someone in the 70’s felt the freedom of expression and insulation and put them to good and practical use. Today, my housemate Justin and I were curious enough. We knocked. A fragile young woman opened the door to us. And with some cheeriness on my part, invited us in to peak at the sloping loping ceilings. She apologized for her 4-year-old’s strewn about toys, soon said her husband hides when visitors come, hinted our three minutes to gape were up. We thanked her kindly, slipped on our rubber boots on her porch, and kept walking down Napakiak towards home.

Monday, September 14, 2009

I find my way upstairs to the shelter at work today. I usually do, as it’s my time with people not too busy for small conversation. I volunteered to take a resident somewhere. I wait in the kitchen. I stand by the long table there. I watch with big eyes as two residents, one young, one old, pluck ducks. Donated dead ducks with long feathers. The older one takes the small under-belly soft feathers off first. They kept the feathers in a black garbage bag. To be saved for stuffing pillows.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

I went to court again today. Typically I’ll go accompanying someone in filing a protective order. This morning was different. This morning was a sentencing.

We file in, the four of us attending from work, through the court house doors. Through the metal detector, which I set off every time, because every time, I choose not to avoid wearing my grandmother’s belts that tick it off. We gather our shelled off jackets and wind through the hallway and up the elevator one floor to court room six.

The “victim” was always referred to by her initials. In sexual assault cases, they have that right to anonymity, though people slipped up and said her name at least once. In this town of 6,000, people will know people and people probably already knew what happened with these people. But it’s a right nonetheless.

I sit through this, taking in my first sentencing experience. I keep assuming it will be like Law and Order or some familiar TV show. But it isn’t. The speeches are good, but not TV worthy. As it should be; it’s real life, not TV. Somebody’s life. More than one somebody. And now one somebody is going to jail and the other somebody is known supposedly only by her initials here.
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I walk twenty minutes to work everyday, and twenty minutes home. Uphill both ways, naturally. First arriving in Bethel, I began to dread walking, only because my many year old sneakers hurt my feet. My other ones came in the mail from my family a few weeks in. Funny the feeling of freedom from fitting shoes.




On my walk to and from work, I feel the contentment of small town life. I pass the well-kept, odd looking garden. Blue and purple flowers toppling out of slender metal barrels like someone’s second grade hat made in art class with fuzzy yarn.





I pass where giants played leapfrog and left their fun implanted on the road in scattered patterned potholes. I am passed by trucks and worn out cars with driver’s who have the Midwest small town wave. We make eye contact. Small smile. They lift up three fingers off the steering wheel. I lift my arm up at the elbow. Keep driving. Keep walking.







I turn briefly onto Mission Road, then with my hood up in the light rain, turn my whole body to see the empty road, looking before I cross. Move back behind the green dumpster reading “Private” in sprawled letters. Come to the top of the small slope down, survey the crowded graveyard with white crosses.





Peer down the cylinder carrying water above the permafrost. Hear its goings and its comings.







The path is wetter today and there are bike tracks and shoe prints in the mud. These disappear and reappear every other day as the dirt re-hardens in the long sun. Slackened and firmed up. A familiar process to a 22-year-old in new places. Bethel and adulthood.
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My walk home from work is shaped by the mud I walked over several hours before. I slip on it down a hill just barely, enough though to elicit an “oofta” out of me. A Norwegian/Minnesotan expression. I am neither. Borrowed culture. It won’t be long until Bethel cultures too get into my blood and out through my words, just as the dried mud now never leaves my freedom shoes.

Friday, September 18, 2009

“I hate Casper.” Impending laughter. Our housemate Justin has just returned from a work assignment with Father Chuck. They blessed a house infested with ghosts. Apparently. If you don’t believe it though, the blessing probably won’t work. Justin seemed to take it seriously enough. He certainly thought it was neat. But when Casper the Friendly Ghost is brought up upon his return. Well. Maybe fiction ghosts are different.

Saturday, September 19, 2009

I sit in the intermittent hallway at the back entrance of the cultural center. Here I get wireless and am allowed noise, unlike the library. I sit. I talk. I hear. On Skype (a miracle) with my roommate (from college, not Bethel) and then my brother. Now and again, others walk by. Through that door, then this door. Look at me strangely. Seemingly talking to myself. Or seemingly a confused hunter in my bright orange sweatshirt with a big “I” on it that arrived from my sister early this week, paired with my candy corn leggings. I suppose we’ll each shape our reputations in the small town. But it’s a town of sweatshirts and, well, jeans, not patterned leggings, but the same feeling is there. They pass by with a smile anyway.